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GRAZIANO, R.J: Late 1970’s - Present
Robert J. Graziano of New York, for approximately 27 years, has been one of
the most widely respected designers of fashion jewelry in America. His jewelry
designs, including those for bridal and party use, are finely crafted in
extraordinary detail with design changes seasonally. It has been said that his
jewelry pieces are rich in glamour and appear on pages of fashion magazines,
Vogue, In style, and Town & Country. Saks Fifth Ave, Bloomingdales,
Nordstrom’s, Bergdorf, Goodman’s and Neiman Marcus, to name a few, carry his
jewelry along with his handbags, and belt collections, the last two designed
with the same feeling that incorporates a mix of luxury fabrics and leather.
Graziano has recently applied his techniques to a marvelous grouping of photo
frames up to 3 x 5 inches that are illustrated on the internet at SendAFrame.
The internet, HSN and Barrie Pace, of Hartmarx Corp. also sell Graziano’s
manufactured items including his jewelry on their sites. All Graziano’s
designs are manufactured in the U.S.A.
Graziano’s jewelry designs, including necklaces, bracelets, brooches/pins,
earrings, and rings that are constructed with gold plated, silver plated and
copper base metals, containing Swarovski Austrian clear and color crystals,
color glass beads, simulated and semi precious stones of coral, quartz,
turquoise, pearls, amethyst, topaz, and garnet that are embellished and
handset meticulously in the base metal and topped with Graziano’s exclusive
French enamel in colors of white, green and purple to name a few. Mark: “R.J.
GRAZIANO” and “GRAZIANO”. Robert J. Graziano’s jewelry is made with the upmost
care and arduous to detail. His costume jewelry is receiving a positive
response from buyers almost immediately.
GEORG JENSEN: 1866 - 1935 and 1964 - Present
Georg Jensen opened his silver shop in Denmark in 1866 producing jewelry of the Art Nova, Art Deco designs creating quality pieces in sterling silver base metal of flowers and natural motifs. Mark: "Copyright symbol 925 STERLING DENMARK 101", "Georg Jensen 1915 - 1930 Denmark", "GEORGE JENSEN". Georg Jensen’s jewelry pieces bring high prices and are highly collectible. The company is still in business today.
GERRY’S: 1950s - 1996
Gerry’s costume jewelry consisted primarily of figural pins adorned with various materials and stones of average quality. Some interesting designs were produced although most of the jewelry was relatively common in design and was priced moderately to low asking price. Mark: Gerry’s". The company ceased operations in 1996.
G
IVENCHY: 1950 - PresentHubert de Givenchy was born in France in 1927 and at the age of 17, started his designing career in Parisian fashions with Jacques Fath, then working for Piquet and Lucien Delong and Elsa Sciaiparelli. In 1952, Givenchy opened his own boutique featuring clothing and accessories including jewelry that were sold by department and jewelry stores and worldwide through high novelty boutiques. Some Givenchy jewelry of heavyweight gold and silver metals is of simple chain design with pendants. Others, is of high quality designs, made with heavyweight gold and silver plated metals, rhinestones, glass, Lucite, and plastic beads and faux pearls. A limited amount of designer pieces were made in his early years in business. Givenchy marked a logo on his jewelry, sometimes stamped "GIVENCHY" in the metal of the piece or marked with a "G" metal on both clasps, or a stamp on the metal with "4 G’s" in a box, or stamped in metal "Paris New York Givenchy" and "Givenchy Paris New York Date". Through the years, his designs are high quality accented with brilliant primary color rhinestones, glass, Lucite and plastic beads and faux pearls. Givenchy retired in 1995 and the business was taken over by John Galliano. The Givenchy Company was later acquired by the Victoria & Co. Ltd., a leading worldwide marketer and manufacturer of designer jewelry brands in the U.S. and key global markets. That company, as of July 2000, has now been taken over by the Jones Apparel Group. The Givenchy label is still on the jewelry produced that is sold in fine department stores. The jewelry is still known for its superb designs and craftsmanship, some with more affordable prices using cheaper materials and stones and others of outstanding designs with higher prices using quality stones and materials.
GOLDETTE: 1958 - Unknown
Ben Gartner founded the Circle Jewelry Products Company NYC in 1958 producing Goldette Costume jewelry. The jewelry produced was influenced by Asian and Victorian Revival themes using rhinestones, faux stones and pearls, with ornate metalwork and enamel. Mark: "GOLDETTE" and "goldette and a copyright symbol" in script 1958 and later.
HENKEL & GROSSE: 1938 - Unknown
Grosse is the trademark for the costume jewelry produced by Henkel & Grosse of Pforzheim, Germany since 1938. The company was the primary manufacturer of finer costume jewelry for Christian Dior and other third party labels. The designed jewelry was made with gold plated and rhodium plated base metals with prong set clear and colored rhinestones/crystals, aurora borealis, faux pearls, lapis, turquoise, and ruby stones. Mark: "Henkel and Grosse for Chr. Dior Germany", "Henkel and Grosse for Christian Dior Made in Germany", "Chr. Dior Germany date".
HAR: 1950s - Lote 1950s
The jewelry was produced by the Hargo Jewelry Company NY. Some of the designs had the English, Asian and Continental touch with excellent enameling. The lines of production included ancient oriental figures with imitation bone faces, fantasy designs of genies and Aladdin’s Lamp, Chinese dragons and smiling coolies, and African turban figures. The company also produced enameled fruit, small animals, insects, fish, birds, people figures and leaves gold plated with rhinestones and imitation pearls and stones. Mark: "HAR with a copyright symbol". The company ceased operations in the late 1950s.
HARRY ISKIN: Late 1920s - 1943
Harry Iskin founded the Harry Iskin Company in Philadelphia, PA sometime in
the late 1920s and in 1930, the company name was changed to Iskin
Manufacturing Company manufacturing Masonic charms, society emblems, class
pins, trophies, medals, and silver beads of white, rose, and yellow gold,
sterling silver, and vermeil metals.
The silver beads and jewelry were marketed in the 1930s and 1940s with colored
stones, amethyst, emerald and marcasite, and rhinestones, multi-faceted and
prongs set in the metals. Mark: “Iskin” earliest mark, Tag and Metal Stamp:
“Iskin Jewelry in a circle with letters H over I, 10k G.F., or 12k G.F or
Sterling”. Many pieces of jewelry contained 2 colors of gold metal, rose and
yellow gold. The Iskin company gradually focused on the production of
specialty jewelry of medals, emblems, flower pins, and silver beads. The firm
went out of business around 1943. Iskin jewelry found is prized and highly
collectible.
HILLCRAFT, Rockville, IN: 1950 - Unknown
Hillcraft Jewelry was started around 1950 at a Tuberculosis (TB) Sanitorium
located in Rockville, Indiana where the patients started making jewelry with
gold filled wire. The facility was owned by Alan Chamberlain, Bill May and
Charles Ellis with Charles Ellis later leaving the group to start his own
jewelry business in Greencastle under the name of Castlecraft. Other owners
through the years included Dale Kirk and Joe Rossinger with no additional
information available on the jewelry, owners, or location of the facility in
2006 from the Rockville, IN public library.
The Hillcraft jewelry including earrings that slid up over the earlobes.
Hillcraft was not marked on the piece, but came in a box with a tag inside
marked :“Hillcraft” in script form. The Hillcraft jewelry was not sold in
stores. It was sold only through Women’s groups as fund raisers. The jewelry
is scarce and a rare find.
HOBE: 1887 - Present
The name Hobe is the family name of a business starting in Paris, France in 1887 by Jacques Hobe who was regarded as a master goldsmith recognized throughout Europe as a producer of fine jewelry. One of his son’s, William Hobe, while still in France, was a representative for a German company selling theatrical costumes. He came to the U.S. and sold costumes to Florence Ziegfeld of the Ziegfeld Follies with a request by Ziegfeld to also create inexpensive but real looking jewelry to go along with the showgirls costumes. In 1930, William Hobe created the company, Hobe Cie Ltd. NY producing Hobe costume jewelry.
The Hobe jewelry has been of excellent and elegant designs with high quality stones embellishing superior sterling silver, platinum and gold plated metalwork. The Hobe jewelry has been excellent in workmanship especially on its reproductions of antique jewelry such as the replicas of the jewelry of the European courts which was made to last. During the 1950's, Hobe designed and produced jewelry for movies in Hollywood and also for the movie stars personal collections. Hobe jewelry was said to be the jewelry of choice in Hollywood, for it was favored by many producers and movie stars, and was designed to compliment the costumes of actresses in movies. The jewelry was also used by fashion models in advertising promotions. One of the 1940s slogans in a Hobe advertisement was "jewels of legendary splendor". Hobe jewelry advertisements claimed that their jewelry was handmade using platinum, gold or sterling metal. It has been said that Hobe jewelry is unmatched in quality. The Hobe Company has been considered one of the very best of costume jewelry manufacturers in America. Mark: "Hobe with a dash above the e" on an oval plaque and "Hobe STERLING 14K with a copyright symbol" in a triangle used in 1958. The Hobe pieces produced between 1935 and 1955 are highly collectible. William Hobe’s sons, Robert and Donald, as of 2004, have continued the business located in Mount Vernon, NY. Some of the Hobe craftsman, Serillo, Ralph Demassa, Mr. Solomon, Zoltan Imirshaw, Lou Vece and James Hobe have their own marks on jewelry produced.
HOLLYCRAFT: 1948 - 1971
Joseph Chorbajian founded the Hollywood Jewelry Manufacturing Company NYC in 1938. The jewelry exhibited beautiful designs with excellent workmanship that is well executed and rich appearing with the use of glimmering rhinestones that were sometimes accented with enamel work. Rhinestones used on Hollycraft jewelry are usually of pastel colors with brilliant glow emanating from the depth of the stones, and extremely difficult to replace. Mark: "HOLLYCRAFT CORP. and dated" starting in the 1950s, and "HOLLYCRAFT with a copyright symbol". The company was in business and produced jewelry until the late 1960s; its jewelry was sold until 1971.
HONORA JEWELRY: Early 1950’s - Present
The Honora Jewelry Company was founded by Jerome Grossbardt with headquarters
located at 48th Street, New York, NY in the early 1950’s with the name
standing for quality, value, and beauty in the jewelry industry. The Honora
Company has designed and produced a wide variety of styles and pearl types
jewelry into bracelets, necklaces, rings, earrings and pendants using fine
quality fresh water cultured pearls from top producer in Japan, China and
various South Sea countries.
The jewelry pieces created and manufactured by Honora use 14k, 18k and
platinum base metals and strung their products with the highest quality string
available including some pearls hand-tied with silk thread or microcord, some
with diamond spacers between each pearl, accents of leather, and clasps of
sterling silver and woven stainless steel. Honora’s fact sheets indicates “our
trademarked “PEARL GAME”, a 34” opera which breaks down into a variety of
wearable lengths, is available with or without diamond rondels (spacers
between each pearl) , and continues to be the industry standard for a fine
basic cultured pearl strand”. Mark: Tag: “HONORA in an oval circle”. If
purchased new or the sale of nearly new item, a stamped pouch is enclosed with
the jewelry piece.
For women, pearl strands and earrings or studs have always been a fashion gem
through the years. Even today, with pearl sales skyrocking, pearl jewelry is
still considered a popular investment to buy or receive as a gift. Pearls
epitomizes elegance and are vital and essential to a woman’s wardrobe. Honora
pearls, prized for their beauty and value, are extremely fashionable and
highly well-priced according to the materials used and designs created in a
variety of styles and pearl types (necklaces, bracelets, earrings, pendants,
and rings) using high quality fresh water cultured pearls, mostly purchased
today from the Chinese growers (makers of upper quality range of production,
increase in size, roundness and spectacular colors of pearls), and high
quality carat gold and platinum metal.
Honora, through the years has and is also designing and manufacturing fine 14k
and 18k gold, and sterling silver jewelry including some with genuine diamonds
and gemstones. Honora pearls are sold on the internet at Homora.com, QVC.com,
Amazon.com, Macy’s.com, Norman Landsberg Honora Jewelry Collection, James Free
Jewelers.com, to name a few, and on the QVC TV Network.
HOUSE OF BUCCELLATI: 1919 - Late 1969
Early 1970 - Present
The Buccellati name has been known in the jewelry and silver world since 1750
when Contardo Buccellati, a silversmith, had a store in Milano, Italy where
the Buccellati style of jewelry and silver had won the favor of the most
discriminating clientele including the royal houses of Italy, Belgium, Spain,
and Egypt as well as the Vatican with personal patronage of Popes and
Cardinals.
Mario Buccellati officially started the House of Buccellati in 1919 in Italy
taking over the business of his relatives where he had started to work as an
apprentice before WWI. The business flourished, and, before WWII, Mario
Buccellati opened shops in Rome and Florence, Italy, in New York and Palm
Beach, Florida after the war. It was a family business with 5 sons and 4
brothers including Gianmaria. The firm manufactured primarily antiqued
silvertone jewelry in both traditional and modern designs in thick and chunky
metal giving the impression of aged silver. Mark: Mario Buccellati” or
“Buccellati” both in script signature form. Mario Buccellati pioneered the
jewelers Art of engraving. This Art form identified his unique one-of-a-kind
pieces that set him apart from other jewelry goldsmiths and silversmiths of
the world.
Mario Buccellati died in 1965 and the business was taken over by his 4 oldest
sons with the sons working together until late 1969 when they split up and
went their separate ways with the firm going out of business. Mario’s brother
Gianmaria Buccellati maintained the company’s workshop site in New York, and
the production of jewels and silver.
In the early 1970s, working with his brother Luca, Gianmaria reestablished the
company and started out to expand the company globally by setting up a retail
presence in Europe, the U.S, and Asia opening shops in Japan, Monte Carlo,
Paris, Sardinia, Milan, Venice, New York and Beverly Hills, California. The
House of Buccellati produced their jewelry of silver and gold in small
workshops with skilled artisans that are consider the best in Italy, a staff
of 250 persons uniquely trained in the exacting principles of taste, quality,
style and techniques of the House of Buccellati. The pieces were crafted by
hand, using ancient techniques that have passed from generation to generation
with many of these workers being the sons and grandsons of Mario Buccellati,
therefore, family identity has remained with the establishment for years and
generations. Mark: “BUCCELLATI”, “GIANMARIA BUCCELLATI”.
The House of Buccellati has pursued jewelry designs in rings, earrings,
necklaces, brooches, and bracelets that focuses more on the unique setting of
precious and semi-precious stones, pearls, and even minerals embedded in
sterling silver and gold metals on favorite themes from nature and the Arts.
The name of Buccellati has become the supreme example of modern excellence in
the highly traditional Art of Silversmith and Goldsmith. Designs today in
2005, Gianmaria and his son Andrea Buccellati have created a new range of
jewelry products that are suitable for a contemporary and active lifestyle
called the Buccellati Collection lines, in gold metal, with some jewelry
pieces indicated with pricing from $1200 to $2900 at Bergdorf Goodman as
follows:
Classics - 18k yellow gold, necklace, rings and earrings engraved and
decorated with diamonds.
Crepe de Chine - 18k yellow gold, necklace, ring, earrings, bracelet.
Hawaii - 18k yellow gold, bracelet (Honolulu).
Anemone - 18k yellow gold, bracelet with diamonds.
Ondini - 18k gold, bracelet, earrings engraved and decorated with diamonds.
Rete - 18k gold, bracelet, pendant and earrings with pearls.
Rombi - 18k gold, bracelet, ring, and earrings decorated with diamonds.
Acanthus leaves - Executed in 18k gold, necklace, brooch.
Virgola - 18k gold, small necklace, ring, brooch engraved and decorated with
diamonds.
Pins and Brooches - 18k gold, crabs and bees with diamonds, red coral, pink
coral and pearls.
This range of jewelry above, with its superb styling and craftsmanship,
reflects all of the characteristics and expertise of fine jewelry making that
has made this Milanese house famous since 1919. Buccellati jewelry, set in
sterling silver and gold metals are sold through their boutiques in New York
and Beverly Hills, their retail stores in Paris, Milan and to very select
group of the finest jewelers in the U.S. and Canada, on the internet at
Bergdorf Goodman.com, Nieman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman department stores
with other on-line selling only occurring with habitual clients,
buccellati.com (see for additional information) and with retail stores
throughout the world.
IAN ST. GEILAR: 1993 - Present
Ian St. Gielar was born in Poland and came to the U.S. in 1981. His passion
for jewelry making was realized when he became a contributing designer for
Stanley Hagler in 1989 and in 1990 was said to be considered chief designer
for the company but left the company in 1994.
Ian St. Gielar worked with vintage beads and findings to create breathtaking
jewelry considered as genuine works of art using muted pearl designs to those
of colorful, intricate and eleborate designs some using natural stones, coral,
bones, carved ivory, mother-of-pearl having layers of components with colors
and textures close together creating bold use of color, bringing new life to
the line of costume jewelry that could be worn in daytime and all seasons even
with casual clothing.
Ian St. Gielar’s jewelry styles and designs compare with that of Miriam
Haskell, and Robert De Mario’s components such as beads, faux baroque pearls,
metal stampings attached to a filigree plate with wire. His jewelry designs of
bountiful floral arrangements are joyful and exuberant and have been worn by
Whoopi Golberg, Morgan Fairchild, Melanie Griffith with his photo designs
appearing in magazines, Vogue, Harpers and Shine, to name a few.
Ian St. Gielar died in March of 2007 from a heart attack following a car
accident. His wife Valentina, who worked with him for over 8 years, will
continue his work under the name Ian St. Gielar Studio. Mark: disc tag, “IAN
ST. GIELAR”, and “STANLEY HAGLER N.Y.C” (without the period after the C) or
some with both of the disc tags on the back side of the jewelry. Ian St.
Gielar’s jewelry is not sold on their On-Line Store but can be purchased on
eBay or contact stanleyhaglernyc@bellsouth.net
Note: For Your Information: Ian St. Gielar departed the Stanley Hagler N.Y.C.
company in 1994. Ian St. Gielar, after Stanley Hagler’s death in 1996,
designed his signature disc tag as follows: “STANLEY HAGLER N.Y.C” which did
not include the period after the C in N.Y.C. confusing the public. Mark Mercy
has indicated on his website that the Stanley Hagler company always had a
period after the C of N.Y.C. before the STANLEY HAGLER name. Ian St. Gielar
also created his own disc tag: “IAN ST. GIELAR” in 1994.
Vintage Costume Jewelry Makers And Designers
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