NEW AND VINTAGE COSTUME JEWELRY DESIGNERS, MARKS,
MANUFACTURERS REFERENCE INFORMATION & HISTORY
Special thanks for these pages is given to Shirley Wiesmann who has compiled this data on company history and their designers from a wide variety of sources.

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GRAZIANO, R.J: Late 1970’s - Present

Robert J. Graziano of New York, for approximately 27 years, has been one of the most widely respected designers of fashion jewelry in America. His jewelry designs, including those for bridal and party use, are finely crafted in extraordinary detail with design changes seasonally. It has been said that his jewelry pieces are rich in glamour and appear on pages of fashion magazines, Vogue, In style, and Town & Country. Saks Fifth Ave, Bloomingdales, Nordstrom’s, Bergdorf, Goodman’s and Neiman Marcus, to name a few, carry his jewelry along with his handbags, and belt collections, the last two designed with the same feeling that incorporates a mix of luxury fabrics and leather. Graziano has recently applied his techniques to a marvelous grouping of photo frames up to 3 x 5 inches that are illustrated on the internet at SendAFrame. The internet, HSN and Barrie Pace, of Hartmarx Corp. also sell Graziano’s manufactured items including his jewelry on their sites. All Graziano’s designs are manufactured in the U.S.A.

Graziano’s jewelry designs, including necklaces, bracelets, brooches/pins, earrings, and rings that are constructed with gold plated, silver plated and copper base metals, containing Swarovski Austrian clear and color crystals, color glass beads, simulated and semi precious stones of coral, quartz, turquoise, pearls, amethyst, topaz, and garnet that are embellished and handset meticulously in the base metal and topped with Graziano’s exclusive French enamel in colors of white, green and purple to name a few. Mark: “R.J. GRAZIANO” and “GRAZIANO”. Robert J. Graziano’s jewelry is made with the upmost care and arduous to detail. His costume jewelry is receiving a positive response from buyers almost immediately.

GEORG JENSEN: 1866 - 1935 and 1964 - Present

Georg Jensen opened his silver shop in Denmark in 1866 producing jewelry of the Art Nova, Art Deco designs creating quality pieces in sterling silver base metal of flowers and natural motifs. Mark: "Copyright symbol 925 STERLING DENMARK 101", "Georg Jensen 1915 - 1930 Denmark", "GEORGE JENSEN". Georg Jensen’s jewelry pieces bring high prices and are highly collectible. The company is still in business today.

GERRY’S: 1950s - 1996

Gerry’s costume jewelry consisted primarily of figural pins adorned with various materials and stones of average quality. Some interesting designs were produced although most of the jewelry was relatively common in design and was priced moderately to low asking price. Mark: Gerry’s". The company ceased operations in 1996.

GIVENCHY: 1950 - Present

Hubert de Givenchy was born in France in 1927 and at the age of 17, started his designing career in Parisian fashions with Jacques Fath, then working for Piquet and Lucien Delong and Elsa Sciaiparelli. In 1952, Givenchy opened his own boutique featuring clothing and accessories including jewelry that were sold by department and jewelry stores and worldwide through high novelty boutiques. Some Givenchy jewelry of heavyweight gold and silver metals is of simple chain design with pendants. Others, is of high quality designs, made with heavyweight gold and silver plated metals, rhinestones, glass, Lucite, and plastic beads and faux pearls. A limited amount of designer pieces were made in his early years in business. Givenchy marked a logo on his jewelry, sometimes stamped "GIVENCHY" in the metal of the piece or marked with a "G" metal on both clasps, or a stamp on the metal with "4 G’s" in a box, or stamped in metal "Paris New York Givenchy" and "Givenchy Paris New York Date". Through the years, his designs are high quality accented with brilliant primary color rhinestones, glass, Lucite and plastic beads and faux pearls. Givenchy retired in 1995 and the business was taken over by John Galliano. The Givenchy Company was later acquired by the Victoria & Co. Ltd., a leading worldwide marketer and manufacturer of designer jewelry brands in the U.S. and key global markets. That company, as of July 2000, has now been taken over by the Jones Apparel Group. The Givenchy label is still on the jewelry produced that is sold in fine department stores. The jewelry is still known for its superb designs and craftsmanship, some with more affordable prices using cheaper materials and stones and others of outstanding designs with higher prices using quality stones and materials.

GOLDETTE: 1958 - Unknown

Ben Gartner founded the Circle Jewelry Products Company NYC in 1958 producing Goldette Costume jewelry. The jewelry produced was influenced by Asian and Victorian Revival themes using rhinestones, faux stones and pearls, with ornate metalwork and enamel. Mark: "GOLDETTE" and "goldette and a copyright symbol" in script 1958 and later.

HENKEL & GROSSE: 1938 - Unknown

Grosse is the trademark for the costume jewelry produced by Henkel & Grosse of Pforzheim, Germany since 1938. The company was the primary manufacturer of finer costume jewelry for Christian Dior and other third party labels. The designed jewelry was made with gold plated and rhodium plated base metals with prong set clear and colored rhinestones/crystals, aurora borealis, faux pearls, lapis, turquoise, and ruby stones. Mark: "Henkel and Grosse for Chr. Dior Germany", "Henkel and Grosse for Christian Dior Made in Germany", "Chr. Dior Germany date".

HAR: 1950s - Lote 1950s

The jewelry was produced by the Hargo Jewelry Company NY. Some of the designs had the English, Asian and Continental touch with excellent enameling. The lines of production included ancient oriental figures with imitation bone faces, fantasy designs of genies and Aladdin’s Lamp, Chinese dragons and smiling coolies, and African turban figures. The company also produced enameled fruit, small animals, insects, fish, birds, people figures and leaves gold plated with rhinestones and imitation pearls and stones. Mark: "HAR with a copyright symbol". The company ceased operations in the late 1950s.

HARRY ISKIN: Late 1920s - 1943

Harry Iskin founded the Harry Iskin Company in Philadelphia, PA sometime in the late 1920s and in 1930, the company name was changed to Iskin Manufacturing Company manufacturing Masonic charms, society emblems, class pins, trophies, medals, and silver beads of white, rose, and yellow gold, sterling silver, and vermeil metals.

The silver beads and jewelry were marketed in the 1930s and 1940s with colored stones, amethyst, emerald and marcasite, and rhinestones, multi-faceted and prongs set in the metals. Mark: “Iskin” earliest mark, Tag and Metal Stamp: “Iskin Jewelry in a circle with letters H over I, 10k G.F., or 12k G.F or Sterling”. Many pieces of jewelry contained 2 colors of gold metal, rose and yellow gold. The Iskin company gradually focused on the production of specialty jewelry of medals, emblems, flower pins, and silver beads. The firm went out of business around 1943. Iskin jewelry found is prized and highly collectible.

HILLCRAFT, Rockville, IN: 1950 - Unknown

Hillcraft Jewelry was started around 1950 at a Tuberculosis (TB) Sanitorium located in Rockville, Indiana where the patients started making jewelry with gold filled wire. The facility was owned by Alan Chamberlain, Bill May and Charles Ellis with Charles Ellis later leaving the group to start his own jewelry business in Greencastle under the name of Castlecraft. Other owners through the years included Dale Kirk and Joe Rossinger with no additional information available on the jewelry, owners, or location of the facility in 2006 from the Rockville, IN public library.

The Hillcraft jewelry including earrings that slid up over the earlobes. Hillcraft was not marked on the piece, but came in a box with a tag inside marked :“Hillcraft” in script form. The Hillcraft jewelry was not sold in stores. It was sold only through Women’s groups as fund raisers. The jewelry is scarce and a rare find.
 

HOBE: 1887 - Present

The name Hobe is the family name of a business starting in Paris, France in 1887 by Jacques Hobe who was regarded as a master goldsmith recognized throughout Europe as a producer of fine jewelry. One of his son’s, William Hobe, while still in France, was a representative for a German company selling theatrical costumes. He came to the U.S. and sold costumes to Florence Ziegfeld of the Ziegfeld Follies with a request by Ziegfeld to also create inexpensive but real looking jewelry to go along with the showgirls costumes. In 1930, William Hobe created the company, Hobe Cie Ltd. NY producing Hobe costume jewelry.

The Hobe jewelry has been of excellent and elegant designs with high quality stones embellishing superior sterling silver, platinum and gold plated metalwork. The Hobe jewelry has been excellent in workmanship especially on its reproductions of antique jewelry such as the replicas of the jewelry of the European courts which was made to last. During the 1950's, Hobe designed and produced jewelry for movies in Hollywood and also for the movie stars personal collections. Hobe jewelry was said to be the jewelry of choice in Hollywood, for it was favored by many producers and movie stars, and was designed to compliment the costumes of actresses in movies. The jewelry was also used by fashion models in advertising promotions. One of the 1940s slogans in a Hobe advertisement was "jewels of legendary splendor". Hobe jewelry advertisements claimed that their jewelry was handmade using platinum, gold or sterling metal. It has been said that Hobe jewelry is unmatched in quality. The Hobe Company has been considered one of the very best of costume jewelry manufacturers in America. Mark: "Hobe with a dash above the e" on an oval plaque and "Hobe STERLING 14K with a copyright symbol" in a triangle used in 1958. The Hobe pieces produced between 1935 and 1955 are highly collectible. William Hobe’s sons, Robert and Donald, as of 2004, have continued the business located in Mount Vernon, NY. Some of the Hobe craftsman, Serillo, Ralph Demassa, Mr. Solomon, Zoltan Imirshaw, Lou Vece and James Hobe have their own marks on jewelry produced.

HOLLYCRAFT: 1948 - 1971

Joseph Chorbajian founded the Hollywood Jewelry Manufacturing Company NYC in 1938. The jewelry exhibited beautiful designs with excellent workmanship that is well executed and rich appearing with the use of glimmering rhinestones that were sometimes accented with enamel work. Rhinestones used on Hollycraft jewelry are usually of pastel colors with brilliant glow emanating from the depth of the stones, and extremely difficult to replace. Mark: "HOLLYCRAFT CORP. and dated" starting in the 1950s, and "HOLLYCRAFT with a copyright symbol". The company was in business and produced jewelry until the late 1960s; its jewelry was sold until 1971.

HONORA JEWELRY: Early 1950’s - Present

The Honora Jewelry Company was founded by Jerome Grossbardt with headquarters located at 48th Street, New York, NY in the early 1950’s with the name standing for quality, value, and beauty in the jewelry industry. The Honora Company has designed and produced a wide variety of styles and pearl types jewelry into bracelets, necklaces, rings, earrings and pendants using fine quality fresh water cultured pearls from top producer in Japan, China and various South Sea countries.

The jewelry pieces created and manufactured by Honora use 14k, 18k and platinum base metals and strung their products with the highest quality string available including some pearls hand-tied with silk thread or microcord, some with diamond spacers between each pearl, accents of leather, and clasps of sterling silver and woven stainless steel. Honora’s fact sheets indicates “our trademarked “PEARL GAME”, a 34” opera which breaks down into a variety of wearable lengths, is available with or without diamond rondels (spacers between each pearl) , and continues to be the industry standard for a fine basic cultured pearl strand”. Mark: Tag: “HONORA in an oval circle”. If purchased new or the sale of nearly new item, a stamped pouch is enclosed with the jewelry piece.

For women, pearl strands and earrings or studs have always been a fashion gem through the years. Even today, with pearl sales skyrocking, pearl jewelry is still considered a popular investment to buy or receive as a gift. Pearls epitomizes elegance and are vital and essential to a woman’s wardrobe. Honora pearls, prized for their beauty and value, are extremely fashionable and highly well-priced according to the materials used and designs created in a variety of styles and pearl types (necklaces, bracelets, earrings, pendants, and rings) using high quality fresh water cultured pearls, mostly purchased today from the Chinese growers (makers of upper quality range of production, increase in size, roundness and spectacular colors of pearls), and high quality carat gold and platinum metal.

Honora, through the years has and is also designing and manufacturing fine 14k and 18k gold, and sterling silver jewelry including some with genuine diamonds and gemstones. Honora pearls are sold on the internet at Homora.com, QVC.com, Amazon.com, Macy’s.com, Norman Landsberg Honora Jewelry Collection, James Free Jewelers.com, to name a few, and on the QVC TV Network.

HOUSE OF BUCCELLATI: 1919 - Late 1969

Early 1970 - Present

The Buccellati name has been known in the jewelry and silver world since 1750 when Contardo Buccellati, a silversmith, had a store in Milano, Italy where the Buccellati style of jewelry and silver had won the favor of the most discriminating clientele including the royal houses of Italy, Belgium, Spain, and Egypt as well as the Vatican with personal patronage of Popes and Cardinals.

Mario Buccellati officially started the House of Buccellati in 1919 in Italy taking over the business of his relatives where he had started to work as an apprentice before WWI. The business flourished, and, before WWII, Mario Buccellati opened shops in Rome and Florence, Italy, in New York and Palm Beach, Florida after the war. It was a family business with 5 sons and 4 brothers including Gianmaria. The firm manufactured primarily antiqued silvertone jewelry in both traditional and modern designs in thick and chunky metal giving the impression of aged silver. Mark: Mario Buccellati” or “Buccellati” both in script signature form. Mario Buccellati pioneered the jewelers Art of engraving. This Art form identified his unique one-of-a-kind pieces that set him apart from other jewelry goldsmiths and silversmiths of the world.

Mario Buccellati died in 1965 and the business was taken over by his 4 oldest sons with the sons working together until late 1969 when they split up and went their separate ways with the firm going out of business. Mario’s brother Gianmaria Buccellati maintained the company’s workshop site in New York, and the production of jewels and silver.

In the early 1970s, working with his brother Luca, Gianmaria reestablished the company and started out to expand the company globally by setting up a retail presence in Europe, the U.S, and Asia opening shops in Japan, Monte Carlo, Paris, Sardinia, Milan, Venice, New York and Beverly Hills, California. The House of Buccellati produced their jewelry of silver and gold in small workshops with skilled artisans that are consider the best in Italy, a staff of 250 persons uniquely trained in the exacting principles of taste, quality, style and techniques of the House of Buccellati. The pieces were crafted by hand, using ancient techniques that have passed from generation to generation with many of these workers being the sons and grandsons of Mario Buccellati, therefore, family identity has remained with the establishment for years and generations. Mark: “BUCCELLATI”, “GIANMARIA BUCCELLATI”.

The House of Buccellati has pursued jewelry designs in rings, earrings, necklaces, brooches, and bracelets that focuses more on the unique setting of precious and semi-precious stones, pearls, and even minerals embedded in sterling silver and gold metals on favorite themes from nature and the Arts. The name of Buccellati has become the supreme example of modern excellence in the highly traditional Art of Silversmith and Goldsmith. Designs today in 2005, Gianmaria and his son Andrea Buccellati have created a new range of jewelry products that are suitable for a contemporary and active lifestyle called the Buccellati Collection lines, in gold metal, with some jewelry pieces indicated with pricing from $1200 to $2900 at Bergdorf Goodman as follows:

Classics - 18k yellow gold, necklace, rings and earrings engraved and decorated with diamonds.
Crepe de Chine - 18k yellow gold, necklace, ring, earrings, bracelet.
Hawaii - 18k yellow gold, bracelet (Honolulu).
Anemone - 18k yellow gold, bracelet with diamonds.
Ondini - 18k gold, bracelet, earrings engraved and decorated with diamonds.
Rete - 18k gold, bracelet, pendant and earrings with pearls.
Rombi - 18k gold, bracelet, ring, and earrings decorated with diamonds.
Acanthus leaves - Executed in 18k gold, necklace, brooch.
Virgola - 18k gold, small necklace, ring, brooch engraved and decorated with diamonds.
Pins and Brooches - 18k gold, crabs and bees with diamonds, red coral, pink coral and pearls.

This range of jewelry above, with its superb styling and craftsmanship, reflects all of the characteristics and expertise of fine jewelry making that has made this Milanese house famous since 1919. Buccellati jewelry, set in sterling silver and gold metals are sold through their boutiques in New York and Beverly Hills, their retail stores in Paris, Milan and to very select group of the finest jewelers in the U.S. and Canada, on the internet at Bergdorf Goodman.com, Nieman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman department stores with other on-line selling only occurring with habitual clients, buccellati.com (see for additional information) and with retail stores throughout the world.

IAN ST. GEILAR: 1993 - Present

Ian St. Gielar was born in Poland and came to the U.S. in 1981. His passion for jewelry making was realized when he became a contributing designer for Stanley Hagler in 1989 and in 1990 was said to be considered chief designer for the company but left the company in 1994.

Ian St. Gielar worked with vintage beads and findings to create breathtaking jewelry considered as genuine works of art using muted pearl designs to those of colorful, intricate and eleborate designs some using natural stones, coral, bones, carved ivory, mother-of-pearl having layers of components with colors and textures close together creating bold use of color, bringing new life to the line of costume jewelry that could be worn in daytime and all seasons even with casual clothing.

Ian St. Gielar’s jewelry styles and designs compare with that of Miriam Haskell, and Robert De Mario’s components such as beads, faux baroque pearls, metal stampings attached to a filigree plate with wire. His jewelry designs of bountiful floral arrangements are joyful and exuberant and have been worn by Whoopi Golberg, Morgan Fairchild, Melanie Griffith with his photo designs appearing in magazines, Vogue, Harpers and Shine, to name a few.

Ian St. Gielar died in March of 2007 from a heart attack following a car accident. His wife Valentina, who worked with him for over 8 years, will continue his work under the name Ian St. Gielar Studio. Mark: disc tag, “IAN ST. GIELAR”, and “STANLEY HAGLER N.Y.C” (without the period after the C) or some with both of the disc tags on the back side of the jewelry. Ian St. Gielar’s jewelry is not sold on their On-Line Store but can be purchased on eBay or contact stanleyhaglernyc@bellsouth.net

Note: For Your Information: Ian St. Gielar departed the Stanley Hagler N.Y.C. company in 1994. Ian St. Gielar, after Stanley Hagler’s death in 1996, designed his signature disc tag as follows: “STANLEY HAGLER N.Y.C” which did not include the period after the C in N.Y.C. confusing the public. Mark Mercy has indicated on his website that the Stanley Hagler company always had a period after the C of N.Y.C. before the STANLEY HAGLER name. Ian St. Gielar also created his own disc tag: “IAN ST. GIELAR” in 1994.

 

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